Route 62 - the joys of an old-fashioned road trip
Long ago, going on holiday was as much about the trip as about the destination. As a child, I remember packing 'padkos' for the road, playing games of eye-spy, counting beetle cars and seeing if we could get the big-rig truck drivers to hoot back. Somehow over time, importance has drifted towards the idea of getting as fast as possible from point A to point Z, and in this process, all the points in between get passed by, unnoticed and unexplored. There is something a little sad about this, or perhaps nostalgia sets in as one reaches a certain (non-disclosed) age.
Route 62 offers travellers between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth a more scenic and relaxing alternative to the traffic-packed N2 highway. Uncanny similarities can be found between the legendary Route 66 of the USA, and South Africa's own Route 62. The American version was constructed in 1926, as an inter-regional link, allowing small towns access between Los Angeles and Chicago, just as our Route 62 linked Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. Previously unknown villages along these routes, suddenly prospered from the influx of tourists, transforming them into a bustling hive of activity. In the mid 1950's, a national road replaced Route 66, bypassing the smaller towns, and adversely affecting their economy. South Africa's N2 replaced Route 62 during the same period in 1958, with the same cause and effect on the villages on this route. For nearly half a century, the small towns of the Robertson Valley and Little Karoo have remained preserved in history, little affected by modern eyesores such as chain stores, billboards and franchised roadhouses. Instead, each one has evolved over time, yet kept its individuality. It is this quaintness that has re-awakened the eyes of tourism bodies, to promote a route less travelled, yet full of adventure and intrigue.
Purists will say that the Route 62 does not start in Robertson, and technically they are correct, as Robertson lies on the R60. Just before Montagu, the R60 suddenly becomes the R62 – for no apparent reason, so for the sake of marketing, the towns of the Robertson Valley fall on the Route 62. Leave Cape Town on the N1, and just beyond Worcester, take the R60 towards the wine and fruit-growing towns of the Robertson Valley. This area includes Robertson, Ashton, McGregor, Montagu, Bonnievale and Barrydale. The landscape changes drastically from season to season. In spring, fruit trees look like carnival candy floss, with densely packed pink blossoms. In summer, branches hang heavy, laden with deciduous fruits, including sharon fruit, apricot, peach and nectarine. In autumn, the valley transforms to a rich russet, as vines and fruit trees change hue. Winter brings bare branches that rise out of dense morning mists.
The changing scenery, along with quirky bars, roadside cafés, farm stalls and affordable accommodation, has made this a popular biker's run. Drive along the Robertson Valley part of Route 62, and you will discover establishments with conversation-inducing names such at 'The Dung Beetle Bar', 'Road Kill Café', and Desert Fish – which as the name suggests, serves absolutely no fish. Well-known among the biker community and those who travel this route frequently, is Ronnie's Sex Shop; famous for no other reason than its name. Years ago, Ronnie decided to open a farm-stall along the R62, and painted the name 'Ronnie's Shop' in red on the outside. His friends jokingly added 'sex' to the name, and the place took off, with cars stopping to see what could possibly be sold in a sex shop, literally in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say, prior to even opening, Ronnie changed his new venture from a farm stall to a bar and restaurant, and here you will find him firmly rooted behind his bar, with grey-haired pony tail, and beer mug in hand. The Karoo Saloon, 15km before Barrydale, is also a firm favourite among bikers, and is a regular stopover on breakfast runs.
Signboards from Barrydale's Main Road, direct towards the 'Blue Cow Coffee Shop, at the Barrydale Waterfront'. On arrival, the waterfront is no more than a pond big enough for a family of ducks, but it is this sort of tongue-in-cheek marketing that begs the Route 62 towns to be explored. Coffee shops serve lemon meringue pie made the real way – no premix variety here. With the countryside packed with fruit trees, and jam-making skills passed down through generations, expect only home-made jam, and cream from local dairies to be served with your order of freshly-baked scones.
Standard issue in any small town, is a focal church with a tall steeple, and the Route 62 towns are no different. Before entering a town, the steeple can usually be seen from a distance. Spaced between towns are the prerequisite farm stalls, decorated with rooftop pumpkins, cats lazing on stoeps and scarecrows beckoning you to drive in. Don't be fooled into thinking that if you have seen one farm stall you have seen them all. Each will be stocked with fresh produce, baked goods and preserves made by local farmers' wives, and neighbourhood specialities, to sustain you until your next stop on the journey.
The Robertson Valley Wine Route, claims to be the Cape's longest wine route, and is without the airs and graces of some estates in the Boland wine area, preferring a more relaxed approach to tastings. Graham Beck Cellar, near Robertson, is worth visiting for their Method Cap Classique, a favourite of those who enjoy a good yeasty bubbly. This wine route is also considered to be a more affordable route, and hosts several wine and food inspired festivals. These include the Wacky Wine Weekend in June, Wine on the River in October, Robertson Slow in August, and the Hands On Harvest in February.
The turn off to Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, lies between Montagu and Barrydale. Set amid a harsh Little Karoo landscape, at the foot of the Warmwaterberg, lies 54000 hectares of private game reserve. The area once consisted of 19 sheep and goat farms, and was left to rehabilitate before game was re-introduced to the area, bringing it back to how it was centuries before.
Sanbona is proud to be the home to the only free, self-sustaining white lions. The reserve has a long-term project aimed at increasing the pride of integrated white and tawny lions. I was fortunate to have two big cat close encounters during my stay at Sanbona. The first was being within metres of two adult male white lions; offspring of the original pair. As the engine to the game-viewing vehicle was cut, one brother walked right next to the car, looked me in the eye, and wandered on, not at all perturbed. They then moved on towards the watering hole, and rolled in a pile of hippo faeces. Apparently hippo poop is high in testosterone levels, and gives male lions a sense of invincibility. This is usually done before they invade another lion's territory, so it was unusual to see, considering there is only one pride on the reserve. The second experience was tracking and locating a female cheetah with her adolescent cubs. On coming within 100m of the cheetahs, we left the vehicle, and approached them on foot, guided by our ranger, Andrew. We stood still within a few meters of the cats, and quietly observed them. The young brothers played and groomed each other, not unlike domestic cats do. This fact, along with their loud purring, confirmed that they did not feel threatened by our presence.
Sanbona offers three accommodation options, each lodge individual in style, but equally luxurious. Gondwana is the reserve's family lodge, with special activities for children, including treatments for little ones on the spa menu. Tilney Manor is an original farmhouse, beautifully restored, with Cape Georgian décor, offering colonial charm. Dwyka epitomises luxury tented safari-style accommodation, tent being a very loose term. No roughing it in this camp; they come with air-conditioning, private plunge pools, and opulent bathrooms that open up to the wilderness.
Leaving Barrydale, Route 62 takes you towards the Little Karoo, passing through Ladismith, the historic mission stations of Zoar and Amalienstein, and the ostrich farming areas of Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn. Weird rock formations around Calitzdorp are known as the 'Red Hills', and geologists have dated them back to 800 million years ago. They form an impressive backdrop to a town acclaimed to be the port capital of South Africa. The climate and soil conditions have several similarities to the Doura Valley in Portugal, making them ideal for Tinta Berocca and Touriga Nacional, grape varietals used in producing port.
Oudtshoorn is South Africa's ostrich capital, and here everything to do with the world's largest bird can be found. Enjoy ostrich steaks and biltong, buy an endless array of products made from their feathers, leather and eggs, or for that matter even eat an ostrich egg. Daily shows and tours explain the uses of these unique birds, or try riding one!
Located 29km from Oudtshoorn on the Swartberg pass towards Prince Albert, lies one of the country's top tourist attractions – the underground wonderland of the Cango Caves. Here you will find drip stone caverns with vast halls, and towering formations of stalagmites and stalactites. Names of halls and formations such as Rainbow Room, Drum Hall, and Fairy stir up the imagination. The more agile can try the adventure tour, which entails crawling, clambering and weaving through areas known as King Solomon's Mine, Devil's Chimney, Lumbago Alley and the Coffin, adding a thrill-factor to the experience. The adventure tour is not recommended if you are claustrophobic.
“Modern travelling is not travelling at all; it is merely being sent to a place, and very little different from becoming a parcel.” These words by John Ruskin make one realise the importance of making the journey part of your holiday. Route 62 makes an ideal nostalgic trip, so the next time you travel between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, use this scenic alternative to the N2. Bring back the road trip. Bring back the fun.
© Rose-Anne Turner - as written for issue 28 of Explore SA
Route 62 offers travellers between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth a more scenic and relaxing alternative to the traffic-packed N2 highway. Uncanny similarities can be found between the legendary Route 66 of the USA, and South Africa's own Route 62. The American version was constructed in 1926, as an inter-regional link, allowing small towns access between Los Angeles and Chicago, just as our Route 62 linked Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. Previously unknown villages along these routes, suddenly prospered from the influx of tourists, transforming them into a bustling hive of activity. In the mid 1950's, a national road replaced Route 66, bypassing the smaller towns, and adversely affecting their economy. South Africa's N2 replaced Route 62 during the same period in 1958, with the same cause and effect on the villages on this route. For nearly half a century, the small towns of the Robertson Valley and Little Karoo have remained preserved in history, little affected by modern eyesores such as chain stores, billboards and franchised roadhouses. Instead, each one has evolved over time, yet kept its individuality. It is this quaintness that has re-awakened the eyes of tourism bodies, to promote a route less travelled, yet full of adventure and intrigue.
Purists will say that the Route 62 does not start in Robertson, and technically they are correct, as Robertson lies on the R60. Just before Montagu, the R60 suddenly becomes the R62 – for no apparent reason, so for the sake of marketing, the towns of the Robertson Valley fall on the Route 62. Leave Cape Town on the N1, and just beyond Worcester, take the R60 towards the wine and fruit-growing towns of the Robertson Valley. This area includes Robertson, Ashton, McGregor, Montagu, Bonnievale and Barrydale. The landscape changes drastically from season to season. In spring, fruit trees look like carnival candy floss, with densely packed pink blossoms. In summer, branches hang heavy, laden with deciduous fruits, including sharon fruit, apricot, peach and nectarine. In autumn, the valley transforms to a rich russet, as vines and fruit trees change hue. Winter brings bare branches that rise out of dense morning mists.
The changing scenery, along with quirky bars, roadside cafés, farm stalls and affordable accommodation, has made this a popular biker's run. Drive along the Robertson Valley part of Route 62, and you will discover establishments with conversation-inducing names such at 'The Dung Beetle Bar', 'Road Kill Café', and Desert Fish – which as the name suggests, serves absolutely no fish. Well-known among the biker community and those who travel this route frequently, is Ronnie's Sex Shop; famous for no other reason than its name. Years ago, Ronnie decided to open a farm-stall along the R62, and painted the name 'Ronnie's Shop' in red on the outside. His friends jokingly added 'sex' to the name, and the place took off, with cars stopping to see what could possibly be sold in a sex shop, literally in the middle of nowhere. Needless to say, prior to even opening, Ronnie changed his new venture from a farm stall to a bar and restaurant, and here you will find him firmly rooted behind his bar, with grey-haired pony tail, and beer mug in hand. The Karoo Saloon, 15km before Barrydale, is also a firm favourite among bikers, and is a regular stopover on breakfast runs.
Signboards from Barrydale's Main Road, direct towards the 'Blue Cow Coffee Shop, at the Barrydale Waterfront'. On arrival, the waterfront is no more than a pond big enough for a family of ducks, but it is this sort of tongue-in-cheek marketing that begs the Route 62 towns to be explored. Coffee shops serve lemon meringue pie made the real way – no premix variety here. With the countryside packed with fruit trees, and jam-making skills passed down through generations, expect only home-made jam, and cream from local dairies to be served with your order of freshly-baked scones.
Standard issue in any small town, is a focal church with a tall steeple, and the Route 62 towns are no different. Before entering a town, the steeple can usually be seen from a distance. Spaced between towns are the prerequisite farm stalls, decorated with rooftop pumpkins, cats lazing on stoeps and scarecrows beckoning you to drive in. Don't be fooled into thinking that if you have seen one farm stall you have seen them all. Each will be stocked with fresh produce, baked goods and preserves made by local farmers' wives, and neighbourhood specialities, to sustain you until your next stop on the journey.
The Robertson Valley Wine Route, claims to be the Cape's longest wine route, and is without the airs and graces of some estates in the Boland wine area, preferring a more relaxed approach to tastings. Graham Beck Cellar, near Robertson, is worth visiting for their Method Cap Classique, a favourite of those who enjoy a good yeasty bubbly. This wine route is also considered to be a more affordable route, and hosts several wine and food inspired festivals. These include the Wacky Wine Weekend in June, Wine on the River in October, Robertson Slow in August, and the Hands On Harvest in February.
The turn off to Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, lies between Montagu and Barrydale. Set amid a harsh Little Karoo landscape, at the foot of the Warmwaterberg, lies 54000 hectares of private game reserve. The area once consisted of 19 sheep and goat farms, and was left to rehabilitate before game was re-introduced to the area, bringing it back to how it was centuries before.
Sanbona is proud to be the home to the only free, self-sustaining white lions. The reserve has a long-term project aimed at increasing the pride of integrated white and tawny lions. I was fortunate to have two big cat close encounters during my stay at Sanbona. The first was being within metres of two adult male white lions; offspring of the original pair. As the engine to the game-viewing vehicle was cut, one brother walked right next to the car, looked me in the eye, and wandered on, not at all perturbed. They then moved on towards the watering hole, and rolled in a pile of hippo faeces. Apparently hippo poop is high in testosterone levels, and gives male lions a sense of invincibility. This is usually done before they invade another lion's territory, so it was unusual to see, considering there is only one pride on the reserve. The second experience was tracking and locating a female cheetah with her adolescent cubs. On coming within 100m of the cheetahs, we left the vehicle, and approached them on foot, guided by our ranger, Andrew. We stood still within a few meters of the cats, and quietly observed them. The young brothers played and groomed each other, not unlike domestic cats do. This fact, along with their loud purring, confirmed that they did not feel threatened by our presence.
Sanbona offers three accommodation options, each lodge individual in style, but equally luxurious. Gondwana is the reserve's family lodge, with special activities for children, including treatments for little ones on the spa menu. Tilney Manor is an original farmhouse, beautifully restored, with Cape Georgian décor, offering colonial charm. Dwyka epitomises luxury tented safari-style accommodation, tent being a very loose term. No roughing it in this camp; they come with air-conditioning, private plunge pools, and opulent bathrooms that open up to the wilderness.
Leaving Barrydale, Route 62 takes you towards the Little Karoo, passing through Ladismith, the historic mission stations of Zoar and Amalienstein, and the ostrich farming areas of Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn. Weird rock formations around Calitzdorp are known as the 'Red Hills', and geologists have dated them back to 800 million years ago. They form an impressive backdrop to a town acclaimed to be the port capital of South Africa. The climate and soil conditions have several similarities to the Doura Valley in Portugal, making them ideal for Tinta Berocca and Touriga Nacional, grape varietals used in producing port.
Oudtshoorn is South Africa's ostrich capital, and here everything to do with the world's largest bird can be found. Enjoy ostrich steaks and biltong, buy an endless array of products made from their feathers, leather and eggs, or for that matter even eat an ostrich egg. Daily shows and tours explain the uses of these unique birds, or try riding one!
Located 29km from Oudtshoorn on the Swartberg pass towards Prince Albert, lies one of the country's top tourist attractions – the underground wonderland of the Cango Caves. Here you will find drip stone caverns with vast halls, and towering formations of stalagmites and stalactites. Names of halls and formations such as Rainbow Room, Drum Hall, and Fairy stir up the imagination. The more agile can try the adventure tour, which entails crawling, clambering and weaving through areas known as King Solomon's Mine, Devil's Chimney, Lumbago Alley and the Coffin, adding a thrill-factor to the experience. The adventure tour is not recommended if you are claustrophobic.
“Modern travelling is not travelling at all; it is merely being sent to a place, and very little different from becoming a parcel.” These words by John Ruskin make one realise the importance of making the journey part of your holiday. Route 62 makes an ideal nostalgic trip, so the next time you travel between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth, use this scenic alternative to the N2. Bring back the road trip. Bring back the fun.
© Rose-Anne Turner - as written for issue 28 of Explore SA