Hermanus - More than just whales!
By all means go to Hermanus, the 'Whale Capital of the World' for an up-close whale experience. After all, as its name suggests, it offers the best shore-based whale-watching on the globe. But if you intend just passing through for a few great photo opportunities of breaching whales, you will be doing yourself and the town an injustice. Yes, the whales may draw you to Hermanus, but once there, so much more will entice you to stay and explore the town and its surroundings.
Southern Right Whales swim 2500km from the Antarctic to calve off the Southern Cape shores each year; arriving early June and leaving towards the end of November, increasing in numbers with each visit. They are at their most active in September and October, a perfect time to stroll along the famous cliff paths of Hermanus, where you could see a whale breaching only meters away. Both tourists and locals alike gather at viewing spots along the coast. With fingers pointing, and cameras clicking, these intelligent creatures seem to perform for the crowd, their curiosity drawing them closer to shore. If you don't have sea legs, and prefer land-based viewing, start in the centre of town, at the Old Harbour where your odds are high of seeing several whales. From here, walk along the cliff path in the direction of Grotto beach. There are good lookout points along the way, including ‘Die Gang’, and ‘Siewers Punt’, and the official Whale Crier blows his kelp horn using a Morse code system to indicate at which lookouts the whales have been seen. At Voelklip beach you will often see a whale not far behind the surfers. Another great viewing location is the new harbour. On a chilly day when it is too cold to walk the cliff paths, sip a sherry in the Gecko Bar, and watch the whales just beyond the harbour wall, or sometimes even venturing into the harbour.
The coastal towns of the Overberg are now collectively known as the ‘Cape Whale Coast’. As many as 150 whales have been spotted in the bay during peak whale season, and on some days the sea is a hive of activity, as young bulls breach and show off. Groups of whales can be seen sometimes lulling about lazily, and sometimes, in the case of mating groups, quite active, with thrashing, flipper slapping and breaching.
If you fancy seeing the Southern Rights at their level, a whale-watching boat trip with Hermanus Whale Cruises comes highly recommended. This two-hour eco experience departs five times a day from the new harbour, weather permitting, and they guarantee sightings. The boat is expertly skippered by Franklin, and Christopher provides an entertaining yet informative tour. Although the skipper keeps a respectable distance of 50 meters from the whales, their curiosity draws them to the craft. They often surface right next to the vessel, and this is when their vastness can truly be appreciated. Those on the boat have an unforgettable and emotional experience as they look into the intelligent eye of a whale, hear the resonant hollow sound of their grunts and blows, and are often close enough to get wet from the spray.
Hermanus is ideally located only 120km from Cape Town, along the Cape South Coast. This location makes it an ideal base from which to explore the coastal and inland regions of the Overberg, with many quaint towns within an hour's drive. The Hemel-en-Aarde wine route just outside Hermanus, is fast becoming a popular wine destination due to its spectacular views, brilliant restaurants and award-winning wines. The ‘terroir’ (soil and climatic conditions) including cool Atlantic breezes that whisper down the valley, are ideally suited to producing Pinot noir and Chardonnay.
Benjamin Franklin once said, "Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance." This certainly rings true of the winemakers of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. What a life: creating nectar of the vines while living in one of the most beautiful areas in our country. Would we expect these wine folk to be anything but as chilled as a good Chardonnay should be served?
Creation’s modern cellar boasts state of the art equipment, which can be viewed through glass panels on the floor of the stylishly furnished tasting room. The industrial-like building has been softened with a lounge look and focal points, giving it a welcoming feel. Artwork by Hermanus artist Leon Muller adorns the walls, and chandeliers made of wine glasses form a talking point. Creation offers regular events suited to the season, such as Christmas in winter, jazz and wine, food and wine paring evenings, and a harvest festival. Details of these events, which are popular with locals, can be downloaded from their website.
Temptation restaurant at La Vierge winery, has recently re-invented itself with their quirky approach being 'the only way to overcome temptation is to give in to it'. The restaurant has a champagne verandah, with spectacular views across the valley. This deck is the ideal place for Sunday breakfasts, leisurely lunches or unwinding with sundowners. It is also the perfect romantic wedding location. The food and service equal the view in standard. For those not content to just soak in the view, there is a boule court for friendly challenges.
Bouchard Finlayson boutique winery was established in 1989, being one of the first vineyards to realise the potential of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Winemaker Peter Finlayson is renowned as being the pioneer of the Pinot noir cultivar in South Africa. Although he would have every right to be egotistical due to the many award-winning wines produced, this is not the case, and he has a philosophical approach to wine-making: “Each new wine is like a new child displaying uniqueness, offering promise, evoking a range of emotions, without any guarantees. I get to be involved in the initial development, giving my all. But once bottled and released into the world, I have to stand back and let go, quickly watching it develop and make its mark or accept criticism in the face of its exposure.”
Hermanus has a major asset in a seafront cliff path, which stretches from Grotto Beach all the way to the new harbour, a distance of about 10km. This is an excellent way to discover your favourite beach. Travel light. Pack a rucksack with water, towel, sun block and snacks and start at Grotto, the furthest point. Grotto is the longest beach, and the town is proud of its blue flag status. Walk along the well-signposted path, in the direction of Hermanus central, and you will pass Voelklip Beach, popular with surfers; Kammabaai, ideal for children; and Langbaai, Hermanus' secret beach. It is small, but flanked by two rocky outcrops, keeping it sheltered from the wind. Benches are strategically placed at look out points along the cliff path, allowing you to take a rest when needed. The cool breeze will keep you going on a hot summer’s day, and the anticipation of spotting a whale around the next bend, will keep you motivated for the long walk in winter months.
If you want to do what the locals do on a Saturday morning, visit one of the farmers' markets. The choice at hand is between the sophisticated and trendy Boeremark held at Hermanuspietersfontein, or the Hermanus Farmers' Market, a more typical country affair, which is held on the grounds of the Montessori school. Locals gather at the markets over an organic caffeine fix, and debate what to do for the weekend. If you decide to spend a weekend away in Hermanus, instead of stocking up at the supermarket for dinner and picnic supplies, try visiting the markets for delicious local fare. Instead of a trolley and queues at the supermarket, bring a basket and do your weekend grocery shop in the open air. From home-cured meats, tangy cheeses, pickles, and preserves, to freshly baked breads, decadent cakes and pastries, organic vegetables and even wine, your basket will be overflowing, making for a memorable gastronomic weekend.
For those seeking a more active getaway, Hermanus will not fall short of expectations, with a long list of adventure activities on offer. These range from sea-kayaking in Walker Bay, to paragliding from Rotary Way with an eagle's view over the town. Play golf at a 27-hole course, or shark-cage dive in nearby Gansbaai. Hike the mountains starting at the Fernkloof nature reserve, or horse ride along the beach or in the fynbos countryside.
Hermanus means something different to everyone. For some it is home; its inspirational landscape, champagne air and infectious atmosphere draws artists, writers, winemakers and entrepreneurs to its shore. For others it is an 'old faithful' holiday destination, where generations of families meet annually for their Christmas get together, at holiday homes passed down over the years. Hermanus satisfies the most ardent eco-tourist; from giants of the deep, both whales and sharks, to the entertaining antics of the dassies (rock hyrax). A diverse landscape ranging from the wheat and canola fields of the Overberg, to the fynbos of the Kogelberg biosphere reserve as well as indigenous coastal vegetation, means an impressive array of bird life fulfills the birding tourist. Although the town has evolved considerably over the years, and is no longer a sleepy fishing village, it has managed to maintain its charm and personality, which is why it entices visitors year after year.
© Rose-Anne Turner - Written for Explore SA - issue 28
Southern Right Whales swim 2500km from the Antarctic to calve off the Southern Cape shores each year; arriving early June and leaving towards the end of November, increasing in numbers with each visit. They are at their most active in September and October, a perfect time to stroll along the famous cliff paths of Hermanus, where you could see a whale breaching only meters away. Both tourists and locals alike gather at viewing spots along the coast. With fingers pointing, and cameras clicking, these intelligent creatures seem to perform for the crowd, their curiosity drawing them closer to shore. If you don't have sea legs, and prefer land-based viewing, start in the centre of town, at the Old Harbour where your odds are high of seeing several whales. From here, walk along the cliff path in the direction of Grotto beach. There are good lookout points along the way, including ‘Die Gang’, and ‘Siewers Punt’, and the official Whale Crier blows his kelp horn using a Morse code system to indicate at which lookouts the whales have been seen. At Voelklip beach you will often see a whale not far behind the surfers. Another great viewing location is the new harbour. On a chilly day when it is too cold to walk the cliff paths, sip a sherry in the Gecko Bar, and watch the whales just beyond the harbour wall, or sometimes even venturing into the harbour.
The coastal towns of the Overberg are now collectively known as the ‘Cape Whale Coast’. As many as 150 whales have been spotted in the bay during peak whale season, and on some days the sea is a hive of activity, as young bulls breach and show off. Groups of whales can be seen sometimes lulling about lazily, and sometimes, in the case of mating groups, quite active, with thrashing, flipper slapping and breaching.
If you fancy seeing the Southern Rights at their level, a whale-watching boat trip with Hermanus Whale Cruises comes highly recommended. This two-hour eco experience departs five times a day from the new harbour, weather permitting, and they guarantee sightings. The boat is expertly skippered by Franklin, and Christopher provides an entertaining yet informative tour. Although the skipper keeps a respectable distance of 50 meters from the whales, their curiosity draws them to the craft. They often surface right next to the vessel, and this is when their vastness can truly be appreciated. Those on the boat have an unforgettable and emotional experience as they look into the intelligent eye of a whale, hear the resonant hollow sound of their grunts and blows, and are often close enough to get wet from the spray.
Hermanus is ideally located only 120km from Cape Town, along the Cape South Coast. This location makes it an ideal base from which to explore the coastal and inland regions of the Overberg, with many quaint towns within an hour's drive. The Hemel-en-Aarde wine route just outside Hermanus, is fast becoming a popular wine destination due to its spectacular views, brilliant restaurants and award-winning wines. The ‘terroir’ (soil and climatic conditions) including cool Atlantic breezes that whisper down the valley, are ideally suited to producing Pinot noir and Chardonnay.
Benjamin Franklin once said, "Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance." This certainly rings true of the winemakers of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. What a life: creating nectar of the vines while living in one of the most beautiful areas in our country. Would we expect these wine folk to be anything but as chilled as a good Chardonnay should be served?
Creation’s modern cellar boasts state of the art equipment, which can be viewed through glass panels on the floor of the stylishly furnished tasting room. The industrial-like building has been softened with a lounge look and focal points, giving it a welcoming feel. Artwork by Hermanus artist Leon Muller adorns the walls, and chandeliers made of wine glasses form a talking point. Creation offers regular events suited to the season, such as Christmas in winter, jazz and wine, food and wine paring evenings, and a harvest festival. Details of these events, which are popular with locals, can be downloaded from their website.
Temptation restaurant at La Vierge winery, has recently re-invented itself with their quirky approach being 'the only way to overcome temptation is to give in to it'. The restaurant has a champagne verandah, with spectacular views across the valley. This deck is the ideal place for Sunday breakfasts, leisurely lunches or unwinding with sundowners. It is also the perfect romantic wedding location. The food and service equal the view in standard. For those not content to just soak in the view, there is a boule court for friendly challenges.
Bouchard Finlayson boutique winery was established in 1989, being one of the first vineyards to realise the potential of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley. Winemaker Peter Finlayson is renowned as being the pioneer of the Pinot noir cultivar in South Africa. Although he would have every right to be egotistical due to the many award-winning wines produced, this is not the case, and he has a philosophical approach to wine-making: “Each new wine is like a new child displaying uniqueness, offering promise, evoking a range of emotions, without any guarantees. I get to be involved in the initial development, giving my all. But once bottled and released into the world, I have to stand back and let go, quickly watching it develop and make its mark or accept criticism in the face of its exposure.”
Hermanus has a major asset in a seafront cliff path, which stretches from Grotto Beach all the way to the new harbour, a distance of about 10km. This is an excellent way to discover your favourite beach. Travel light. Pack a rucksack with water, towel, sun block and snacks and start at Grotto, the furthest point. Grotto is the longest beach, and the town is proud of its blue flag status. Walk along the well-signposted path, in the direction of Hermanus central, and you will pass Voelklip Beach, popular with surfers; Kammabaai, ideal for children; and Langbaai, Hermanus' secret beach. It is small, but flanked by two rocky outcrops, keeping it sheltered from the wind. Benches are strategically placed at look out points along the cliff path, allowing you to take a rest when needed. The cool breeze will keep you going on a hot summer’s day, and the anticipation of spotting a whale around the next bend, will keep you motivated for the long walk in winter months.
If you want to do what the locals do on a Saturday morning, visit one of the farmers' markets. The choice at hand is between the sophisticated and trendy Boeremark held at Hermanuspietersfontein, or the Hermanus Farmers' Market, a more typical country affair, which is held on the grounds of the Montessori school. Locals gather at the markets over an organic caffeine fix, and debate what to do for the weekend. If you decide to spend a weekend away in Hermanus, instead of stocking up at the supermarket for dinner and picnic supplies, try visiting the markets for delicious local fare. Instead of a trolley and queues at the supermarket, bring a basket and do your weekend grocery shop in the open air. From home-cured meats, tangy cheeses, pickles, and preserves, to freshly baked breads, decadent cakes and pastries, organic vegetables and even wine, your basket will be overflowing, making for a memorable gastronomic weekend.
For those seeking a more active getaway, Hermanus will not fall short of expectations, with a long list of adventure activities on offer. These range from sea-kayaking in Walker Bay, to paragliding from Rotary Way with an eagle's view over the town. Play golf at a 27-hole course, or shark-cage dive in nearby Gansbaai. Hike the mountains starting at the Fernkloof nature reserve, or horse ride along the beach or in the fynbos countryside.
Hermanus means something different to everyone. For some it is home; its inspirational landscape, champagne air and infectious atmosphere draws artists, writers, winemakers and entrepreneurs to its shore. For others it is an 'old faithful' holiday destination, where generations of families meet annually for their Christmas get together, at holiday homes passed down over the years. Hermanus satisfies the most ardent eco-tourist; from giants of the deep, both whales and sharks, to the entertaining antics of the dassies (rock hyrax). A diverse landscape ranging from the wheat and canola fields of the Overberg, to the fynbos of the Kogelberg biosphere reserve as well as indigenous coastal vegetation, means an impressive array of bird life fulfills the birding tourist. Although the town has evolved considerably over the years, and is no longer a sleepy fishing village, it has managed to maintain its charm and personality, which is why it entices visitors year after year.
© Rose-Anne Turner - Written for Explore SA - issue 28